Medan, Indonesia: a Delightful Surprise

In 2017, I attended the UNWTO's annual conference. I still remember the Secretary-General promoting "second city" travel to balance tourism's benefits with respect for local residents ("Travel, enjoy, respect."). Medan, Indonesia--a relatively unknown place that focuses on domestic tourists despite having attractions that would make more popular international destinations blush--is exactly the kind of place the UNWTO had in mind. 

As soon as I landed in Indonesia, I was impressed with Kualanamu International Airport (KNO). Not too busy, not too empty, the entire area had an unusually appealing vibe. Growing up, I traveled in Western airports, which tend to share the same unfortunate traits: 1) sadists who sign up for busybody work allowing them their only taste of power; and 2) dead eyes immediately identifying people who've given up on dreams they once had. In Kualanamu, not only did the staff seem to have genuine smiles, they were genuinely helpful. 

Visitors will notice a tourism board office near the exit doors, and I entered to grab a few leaflets. An employee struck up a conversation with me in English and before I knew it, I had his WhatsApp number in my phone and a reliable contact to arrange daytrips to Sipiso-piso waterfall and Lake Toba.

Lake Toba

I asked about the train into the city centre, expecting a Suharto-era specimen, perhaps operated by steam engine. Freshly baked roti bun in hand, I walked outside, across the main vehicle pickup area, bought a ticket at the counter, and waited for the next train. I had managed to avoid both taxis and touts by walking one minute. 

Not the 1930s-era steam engine I was expecting.

Tourism boards and local governments don't understand how much visitors dread getting from the airport to their hotels. They listen to international consultants promising tax revenue and jobs, including for drivers, a popular career choice for uneducated men. But most poor people cannot afford to buy reliable cars, so many of the new jobs promised go to already-affluent residents or are contingent on banking loans or investments by ride-hailing apps. 

Despite billions spent on eradicating poverty, I firmly believe the world doesn't really care about poor people because the elites dispensing the money don't have a clue how poor people think or live. They'll accept the idea of a new airport generating a certain number of jobs without realizing poor people don't have formal banking relationships and don't typically understand the concept of interest, forcing even scrupulous loan agents to explain only monthly payments to prospective car loan applicants. To bridge the gap between formal and informal economies, governments in developing countries may want to follow the example of California's Bank on San Francisco; however, a more modern approach would eventually incorporate online apps throughout neighborhoods, not just government services. If Tbilisi, Georgia can have RFID-enabled payment systems in small grocery stores, why not Indonesia? I already trust Go-JEK to store some rupiahs for me, and almost everyone, including the poor, owns mobile phones. As ride-hailing apps branch out into payment systems to support food delivery and other services, we're going to see a revolution in banking, but it will all be for naught if every segment of society isn't included in meaningful ways or if banks continue to sell loans with opaque terms. Singapore has the best laws in the world regarding loan disclosures, though I'm not sure if its regulations apply to all loans or only mortgages. Regardless, if I may be so bold to suggest, countries ought to follow the MAS's example when regulating banking disclosures to consumers. 

A joke cover at the MAS Gallery.

Furthermore, to counter a few affluent groups or local mafias from cornering the "income market"--I won't use the term "jobs market"--governments should require ride-hailing companies and taxi companies to deposit a minimum base salary into a bank's escrow account every two weeks, which would then be transferred into a driver's (new) no-fee bank account, preferably linked to a mobile app. Drivers could of course earn more than the base amount, but such payments would be between the driver and employer. I have yet to meet a driver under the age of 50 in Indonesia or the Philippines who owned the vehicle used to transport passengers. In many cases, a ride-hailing app will show the face of the owner who applied to be a Grab or Go-JEK driver, but the person actually driving will be a contractor of the driver who pays either a flat daily rate to use the car or 40 to 50% of daily earnings. (Astute drivers will demand vehicle owners pay 50 to 100% for diesel or gasoline if working on percentage. I felt terrible when I realized one particular driver had failed to do the math and was earning a minuscule amount after daily gas expenses.) 

I'll get back to tourism tips, but allow me a final paragraph on economics: one proven method that balances humanity's self-interest with honest service is competition, and when governments build trains at airports, they encourage taxi drivers to improve their level of service, making repeat business more likely. The key to sustainable tourism is repeat business. A city with too many one-off visitors will not reap the real benefits of tourism, namely, cross-cultural exchanges, foreign student enrollment, corporate growth, useful corporate loyalty programs (customer data is vastly profitable if reliable), and greater overall connectivity. If well-managed Medan is any indication, perhaps cities in large, spread-out countries are better off focusing on domestic tourists first, then international ones. 

Thankfully, the South Korean-built airport train connecting visitors to the city centre (City Railway Station Medan) is clean, fast, and efficient. It took about 30 minutes to get to the Medan stop, which connects to a large shopping mall with a taxi stand (in case you don't have Indonesia's most popular ride-hailing app, Go-JEK). As soon as I entered my hotel, Ibis Styles Medan Pattimura, I knew I'd made the right choice. I had a great experience with Ibis in Casablanca, Morocco despite their weird logo (technically, it's ibis, not Ibis), and I ended up very happy with their Medan property. Breakfast was included in my stay, and it's walking distance to a fancy cafe (Warung Koffie Batavia); an excellent bakery (All Day Bread--get there early); and a wonderful restaurant (Bebek Ubud). I don't even like duck, but I loved the duck at Bebek Ubud and their chicken satay. 

One of the best meals I've ever had.

While we're on the topic of food, you've got to visit two places while in Medan: 1) Bolu Meranti (multiple locations); and 2) Otten Coffee, a coffee roasting facility that sells coffee beans. Otten Coffee at Jalang Kruing No. 3EF, Sekip is near a Bolu Meranti and difficult to reach because it's in an alley but worth the trip. Otten Coffee allows customers to buy small cups of black coffee (a "long black") but not lattes, mochas or, God forbid, a frappuccino that's more sugar than coffee. (I will confess, I enjoyed my Starbucks Shiok-ah-ccino in Singapore, even if I'm certain it gave me instant diabetes.) 

Otten Coffee

Bolu Meranti is a cake shop--"bolu" means sponge cake, and the name of the shop is the name of its most popular cake. 

I thought the bolu meranti cake was okay, but I really liked the durian pancakes, which were more like Greek bougatsas or Danish remonces than American pancakes. (And yes, durian isn't only in Singapore now!) 

In Medan, not Singapore, lah!

I really wish I had tried the pandan chiffon aka bolu pandan, but they had already sold out when I arrived. Also, unless you really like tapioca, I'd skip the bika ambon. The "kue sus" is Indonesia's version of profiteroles, and they were my second favorite item after the durian "pancakes." 

If you're looking for traditional Indonesian food, try Restoran Garuda. The name is very common (beware imitators!), but it's a specific chain of restaurants that has taken the typical Indonesian serving style and expanded it, making it more accessible to patrons used to larger floor plans, easy parking, and fancier ambiances. I discovered jengkol and ayam bambu here, and for that experience, Medan will always hold a special place in my heart. 

Traditional Indonesian food at Restoran Garuda.

While most international tourists visit Medan to see UNESCO sites or the orangutans in Bukit Lawang, I hate zoos, even "natural" ones. My only memorable zoos were in Buenos Aires (baby elephants!) and Tokyo (fennec foxes!), and I still can't shake the feeling I'm unintentionally promoting animal cruelty when I visit animals for human display. Meanwhile, because Costa Rica is in its own league when it comes to "nature tourism," it's difficult to impress me with nature reserves. So why did I come to Medan? I came because I like seeing and feeling the hum and smells of a busy up-and-coming city. I did not expect to see one of the most beautiful waterfalls in the world in Sipiso-piso, located a few hours from the city. 

Sipiso-piso

It took about 20 minutes to walk down a mostly paved path, then a more arduous return uphill. Altogether, expect 1 to 1.5 hours roundtrip if you visit and want to go down to the waterfall and touch the water. I saw grandmas walking barefoot or in sandals with their families on this path, and if an Indonesian grandma can make the trek, so can you. 

I'll post three more photos with explanatory captions, then I must sleep. It's past 3AM in Singapore, and insha'Allah, I fly to see another Indonesian city tomorrow. 

Indonesia is the world's largest Muslim country, and Medan is one of its most diverse cities.
The population is about 25 to 35% Christian, and churches are ubiquitous.

I haven't covered all the fun activities you can do in Medan. This is from Istana Maimun aka Maimoon Palace.

Once in a while, I get lucky and take a decent photo.
This appears to be a congkak.

Bonus:

From Singapore's Indian Heritage Museum

Packing for a Trip 'Round the World

A few people asked me what I bring when I travel. First, I don't make anything complicated. I don't buy packing cubes, I don't roll my shirts, and I don't buy the most expensive jackets or fanciest backpacks. Though I don't have kids or a wife, I do what every penny-pinching parent does: I scour the clearance racks for winter clothes in the summer and look for summer clothes after back-to-school season is over. As a general rule, I shop at home state outlets where I can easily return items if they don't fit. 

Outside of North America, Lazada.com, owned by Jack Ma's Alibaba, is great for ordering items in SE Asia. In Singapore, it seemed like every woman sitting near me on the MRT/subway was browsing the Lazada app. (Competitors have a long way to go before they catch up to Alibaba/Aliexpress and Amazon--DHGate.com rejected my Abdul-Rauf jersey order because its security procedures erroneously flagged my order as suspicious. At least they refunded my money promptly.) 

Before I list my preferences, it may be useful to know I'm 6 feet tall and weigh over 200 pounds, and I have not been paid money or received free merchandise to write this article. I'm sharing my tips because I sincerely believe the more people who travel independently, the easier it will be to build meaningful cross-cultural links. 

1. Dri-FIT casual shirts and socks from Nike. Only one of Nike's Dri-FIT shirts hasn't lived up to its billing. Although laundromats are cheap in SE Asia and northern Africa, you can't always be sure they'll be open, and being able to hang your clothes to dry overnight after hand-washing is crucial in humid climates. I've wasted many hours pointing a borrowed or hotel hand hair dryer at my cotton shirts the night before my next flight. (Luckily, in mountainous or high-altitude areas, clothes dry quickly with no special assistance.) 

Also, I suffer from sweaty feet, and the only socks that help are Nike's Dri-FIT brand. Despite the expense (15+ USD for one pair of the Jordan brand), I gave in because I grew weary of removing dead skin from my feet. I've avoided blisters because regardless of the brand, I follow Coach John Wooden's advice to roll up socks completely to ensure no wrinkles. 

Jordan Dri-FIT socks & shoes from Lazada.com. The shoes were 36 USD, including shipping.
Unpopular colors are marked down eventually.

2. Shorts from Under Armour. Clothing stitched or manufactured in Jordan, Vietnam, Sri Lanka, or Bangladesh--in order from best to good--seems to last the longest. Under Armour must agree because much of their apparel, at least as of 2018, is made in Vietnam and Jordan. 

Bought in Houston, TX. 2 for 15 USD each.
BTW, don't visit Galveston if you're not a TX resident. Trust me.

Quality manufacturing is a fast-moving game. I remember when Shenzhen, China was the premier manufacturing location, but costs quickly increased, driving manufacturers to SE Asian locations. In contrast to developing countries, advanced countries tend to focus on IP-intensive manufacturing like semiconductors and pharmaceuticals as well as weapons. There's a lesson somewhere in there for developing countries... 

3. Anything from Columbia. Once you sign up for the complimentary membership, shipping is free. I like Columbia products that dry quickly (look for Omni-Shade and Omni-Wick products). The website has a convenient "SALE" link on its front page, and once on the "Sale" page, you can sort by "Low to High" prices. 

Screenshot of Columbia website with drop-down menu.

Recently, I spent about 160 USD online, mostly on collared fishing (PFG) shirts. For me, a person so cheap I risk fistfights with unscrupulous cab drivers in developing countries, it's a huge purchase. I plan on wearing these products for 5 to 10 years and bought them as a homecoming gift to myself in March/April 2019. One issue: some clothes don't do well in dryers, so I recommend line drying if possible. 

My top suggestion is to buy a lightweight jacket from Columbia. Their mesh pockets have saved my wallet and valuables many times, and I also put items in them when I fly to avoid cluttering my bags. Even if I'm in humid weather, I bring my jacket because rain can occur anytime. (Side note: countries close to the equator allegedly receive more rainfall, but I haven't noticed any definite pattern. I'd say countries close to the equator receive more than average flash storms but not extended rain.) 

4. Two pants, OR one pant and one jeans. One long pant for cold weather and one for hot weather is all I've needed. For cold weather, I found Adidas CLIMA 365 (Climalite), 100% polyester basketball pants in an Iowa store's clearance rank. For warm weather, I use Nike Dri-FIT pants, especially if I know I'll be visiting a formal place like a church or mosque. The Vatican turned me away the first time because I had shorts, but mosques will lend you a robe if your attire is too casual.  

I don't frequent nightclubs or bars, but if you do, bring jeans and wear them with your jacket when you fly to reduce baggage weight. On my third trip around the world, I didn't bring any jeans--they were too heavy compared to other options. 

If you're going to subzero temperatures, buy thermal undergarments, also called base wear. North Face is one place you can shop for these, but many stores have them, including Dickie's. I usually avoid North Face and Patagonia because their sizing is inconsistent, but for thermalwear, I own North Face underpants I've yet to use. My everyday underwear from Uniqlo does the job in all weather conditions. [Update: if you're going someplace colder than minus 4 Celcius, then you'll need fleece-lined pants from upscale Norwegian Helly Hansen or ski/snowmobile brands like American Polaris.] 

5. Backpacks. This is the most expensive single item you'll buy. I've only used Eagle Creek carry-ons, but the company was bought by a multinational corporation and now focuses on more fashionable items with flimsier material. Their website is still fantastic--employees demonstrate each carry-on bag's features in short online videos. The first carry-on I bought in 1999 used a tough corduroy material, which the company sadly no longer uses. I bought their largest carry-on before my most recent trip, but the company appears to have stopped making it, too. From 1999 to 2018, I've used only two carry-on bags, both from Eagle Creek. 

If you're a woman, Osprey is probably your best choice. Most of their packs are light yet durable. I suspect one reason Eagle Creek stopped making my preferred bags is because they're too heavy for both genders, and targeting only 50% of your customer base isn't typically a winning strategy. I don't know anything about Deuter, but they're also a popular brand. 

Most airlines allow one carry-on and one personal item, and the personal item usually doesn't get a second look as long as it can fit under your seat. (Strangely, some employees ask if I have a laptop in my backpack, as if it's a requirement for a personal item--it's not--but airlines probably don't want to handle laptops in checked bags.) I've heard horror stories about European budget airlines like RyanAir and Wizz Air refusing to allow one personal item on board in addition to a carry-on, which is an unfortunate part of budget travel--sometimes, you take the risk of checking in luggage and paying an additional fee. Over time, if budget airlines continue to be unpredictable with personal item allowances, they'll lose business or go bankrupt like Air Berlin (though to be fair, Germany has excellent train systems, so fewer residents rely on planes for domestic travel). After the way they treated me, I'm personally hoping Blue Panorama Airlines goes bankrupt sooner rather than later. (I avoid Blue Panorama Airlines, United Airlines, and Avianca when possible.) 

For backpacks aka personal items, anything will do, even the 15 USD backpack at your local Walmart, as long as it has a laptop sleeve or compartment. I bought my backpack on L.L. Bean's website for about 30 USD. It was marketed to elementary school kids, but the reviews by parents said high school kids used it, too, and I haven't had any issues. 

Another "off color" sale item.

I don't like Quechua, but many people seem to like their small daypacks (my preferred minimum size is 15 liters, even for a daypack). A lot of young women like the Anello brand, which opens like a 19th century doctor's kit. If you can spare the money, Fjallraven (their logo looks like a sleeping fox) seems to make the best backpacks, but this space is crowded with competitors, including the little-known Craghoppers and the up-and-coming Eiger. 

6. Buy a TSA-compliant lock. They should cost less than 10 USD and are worth the peace of mind. Make sure you read the instructions about setting the combination--it's not intuitive. 

7. My biggest mistake has been waiting too long to replace my shoes/trainers after I depart. I walk 3 to 5 miles a day, and my habit of buying new shoes only when part of my shoe had a hole was a classic "penny wise, pound foolish" approach. Now that I'm older and heavier, I regularly throw away and replace shoes when traveling. 

8. Even if you're not an adventurous eater, chances are high you'll eventually drink parasite-infested water. It's happened to me three times so far, and each time, it took 36 hours--and 5 to 8 pounds--to realize I wasn't dealing with garden variety diarrhea and needed antibiotics. (By the way, the reason hygiene tends to improve after outdoor food stalls are "upgraded" to indoor businesses is mainly because of consistent and clean water supply. My last incident occurred when I ordered two fruit juices containing fruits mixed with contaminated water.) 

The holy grail of travel medicine is amoxicillin. No other drug is able to so rapidly remove parasites in your body. For diarrhea, loperamide is the usual remedy, though many variations exist (an older Dutch acquaintance swears by activated carbon/charcoal). Both amoxicillin and loperamide are on the WHO's Model List of Essential Medicines. 

That's all I can think of for now, but feel free to contact me if you have any questions. I can be snarky, but I answer my own messages, and I'm always looking for international movie recommendations. 

© Matthew Mehdi Rafat (2018) 

Bonus: Thinking about Nike and Under Armour made me realize no one has put together a definitive All-Star Muslim NBA team yet, so I gave it a shot: 

PG Abdul-Rauf (aka Steph Curry before Steph Curry); 

SG Fadi El Khatib (a poor man's Oscar Schmidt); 

SF Abdur-Rahim (Mr. Consistency aka the glue guy); 

PF Faried (rebounding and defensive specialist--not quite Rodman, but damn close); 

F Türkoğlu/İlyasova/Abudurexiti; (Türkoğlu should have won it all with the 2002 Sacramento Kings, but Tim Donaghy happened); 

C Abdul-Jabbar/Olajuwon (tie) 

By the way, the reason I shop at Nike is because they have several outlet stores near me. You might prefer other Dri-FIT brands, but the key is to look for outlet stores with large clearance sections. 

Two Random Quotes

"No greater nor no better Law, say I, than to love God above all, and all our Fellow-Creatures as ourselves; these two contain Law, Prophets and Gospel, do to all as we would be done by." -- Quaker Benjamin Lay 

"Schools are quick to blame everyone and everything but themselves for the failures of American education. To them, every bad teacher is the exception and every bad parent is the rule." -- Thomas Sowell 

Bonus: "She wasn't like some of the girls. She wouldn't have gone with a fellow she didn't like even if he had all the dough in the world. That's why I liked her so, that's why I loved her so much... You don't know how tough it is to get a job, not when you don't know anyone." -- Donald Roberson, "Thursday Night at Roy's" (Autumn 1936, The Folio) 

Book Review: John Perry, Singapore: Unlikely Power (2018)

I'm about halfway finished with Perry's Singapore: Unlikely Power (2018). Despite a too-flowery start, the book settled down and became much more tolerable to read. Below are a few passages that caught my eye. Perhaps they'll interest you, too. 

History is more interesting than you can imagine.
Scroll all the way down this post for more.

Interestingly, LKY left out housing, another essential item.
For most Singaporeans, the gov is heavily involved in providing access to housing.

LKY was a POW when the Japanese defeated the British
and until the British re-gained Singapore circa 1945.

Today, Singapore is known for its strict laws--including the death penalty--for drug possession. Given its history, Singapore's draconian drug policies make perfect sense as a way to eliminate the former power structure's source of income.

Despite more countries building land-based infrastructure,
the sea continues to be important in the modern economy.

Surprise!

Bonus: in Surabaya, Indonesia, I visited the Cheng Hoo mosque aka Zheng He mosque. (The Bahasa language apparently replaces the "z" with a "c," similar to how Spanish calls the "v" a "b.") The mosque provided even more information about the fascinating seafarer not as famous in the West as he should be. Here is more information explaining some of Zheng He's remarkable feats, including navigating seven(!) journeys: 

From Surabaya, Indonesia

Bonus II: from Clark Winter's The Either/Or Investor (2008). 

pp. 66, hardcover, Random House

Advertising

Advertising is an interesting business. Harley Davidson used to market itself to fishermen, hardly the "bad boy" image the company would later adopt after its motorcycles were featured in Easy Rider (1969). 

Nestle used to market Milo--now primarily a kid's drink--to active adults, touting its vitamins. 

From Singapore's National Library exhibit, "Selling Dreams," 10th Floor (July 2018 to February 2019). 

Isabella Bird, World Traveler

Isabella Bird, world traveler, on America, a "nationally sensitive" country, and the truth: 

 

Scandinavia, Socialism, Capitalism, and Taxes

1. The only two questions to ask when discussing an economic or taxation program are: 

1) Do the taxes or fees generate sufficiently positive returns for all taxpayers and residents relative to the tax or fee?; and 

2) Are the programs created or maintained as a result of the tax or fee sustainable over time when accounting for all expenses, both short-term (e.g. salaries) and long-term (e.g., pensions)? 

In short, what is the benefit relative to the tax, and is it sustainable? 

2. Here's a relevant link re: Sweden's pension reform: http://www2.ilo.org/public//english/protection/socfas/publ/discus/swedish.pdf 

3. "The key to Sweden's success is that it slashed taxes, greatly reduced its public sector, and underwent a massive privatization program in the 1990s." -- Michael Booth, The Almost Nearly Perfect People (2014) 

4. Increasing funding for a program doesn't always improve the program because much of the new funding may go to existing obligations, not new employees or new improvements. More here: https://bit.ly/2LF6tgx 

5. Full video here discussing issues more in depth: https://youtu.be/sMlCn66_yFo